Travel Log: Nikko Toshogu Part I

Date: 18 November 2007 (Sunday)
Time: 1015 ~ 1458
Destination: Toshogu (東照宮) and vicinity, Nikko (日光)
Weather: Sunny/Cloudy; Windy (Max 13m/s); -1°C ~ 6°C

I'd been telling myself, "I'm going to Nikko. I'm going to Nikko," for quite some time. But everytime, I managed to come up with some sort of excuse and postpone the trip. Somehow, though, I eventually managed to get myself put it into action.

Since I wasn't staying overnight in Nikko, I had to squeeze all my plans into one day. Besides, it takes more than 3 hours to Nikko from home, so I decided to take the 0609 train from home. Heck, was I ambitious; thought of also visiting the Chuzenji area as well for the Kegon falls. Well, at least, that was the plan, as you shall see later.

0645 - Wha-what time izzit?!
Oops, 2 hours late! 2 hours! Forget to set the handphone's alarm to ring on Sunday. (It only rings on school days.) But at least I wake up, even without the alarm. And that's something to boast about. Somehow, I manage to get ready in a mere 30 minutes (shower, pack the bag, gulp down glass of milk and chomp on half a piece of bread). Eventually leave from Ishikawadai station by the 0710 train.

0810 - Transit to Tobu line @ Asakusa
Phew! At last Asakusa. I make it in time for the 0810 train. 1 hour behind schedule. Well, at least I make up for one hour. I take a Rapid Train, which is cheaper than Limited Express, but of course, slower. (1320 yen, 2 hours 04 minutes approximately)

1014 - Tobu Nikko Station, at last!
Very, very, very good weather. See for yourself.

I buy a 1000-yen ticket which is valid for all the three shrines and temples, and a 500-yen World Heritage pass for unlimited bus rides within the designated route in one day. (Shouldn't have bought that, frankly.) My first destination is Rin-no-ji Temple; within walking distance from the station. I don't mind walking, but as mentioned earlier, I need to save time. So, I guess the bus is the better option. Damn crowded; "Oh, it's a Sunday, duh!"

1044 - First stop: Sanbutsudo, Rin-no-ji Temple (三仏堂、輪王寺)
Getting off at bus stop 82, it's the entrance to the first temple, Rin-no-ji.

This guy over here, is apparently some big guy. He's the founder of the temples of Nikko who founded Rin-no-ji Temple around 766 and Chuzenji Temple in 782.

The giant urn with burning incense, in front of Sanbutsu-do (三仏堂). Unfortunately, the building is currently under maintenance. It is the largest temple in Nikko mountains; and represents the architecture of the Tendai sect. Inside the temple (photos not allowed), are the wooden statues of the Thousand-handed Kwannon, the Amida Buddha, and the Horse-headed Kwannon.

The Sorinto Pillar is built in 1643 by the reques of Shogun Iyemitsu. Measuring 15 meters high, it contains in it 1000 volumes of holy sutra. Behind the pillar is the Holy Fire Temple (大護摩堂).

1122 - World Heritage, Toshogu (東照宮)
Now, this is the highlight of the day. World Heritage, Toshogu.

Pardon me, but this photo isn't taken well.

This is the Revolving Library (aka the Sutra Library). The place is off-limits but in the inside, there's a revolving book stack containing a complete collection of scriptures.

This is, uh, somewhere, somewhere, I don't remember...

And then you have this sacred stable. In every major shrine, there's always a stable.

Home to the sacred horse, presented by the New Zealand government as a symbol of goodwill. It's named Koha, which means "gift" in the Maori language.

But, what's more famous than the sacred horse is this.

The three monkeys on the lintels of the stable. "Hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil"; these are derived from the three major principles of the Tendai sect. It is said that the Japanese version is shortened from a similar phrase found in the Analects of Confucius. The proverb has nothing to do with monkeys; it is just a word play.

Another reason why monkeys were carved is because according to legend, monkeys protect horses from illnesses. In fact, there're more than these three monkeys; the eight panels of wooden carvings represent different stages of life. (Nikko Toshogu Official Homepage)

Now, this is the coolest part. The Yomeimon Gate （陽明門）.

Closer, closer...

The gate is one of the many national treasures in this area. Lavish and elaborated carvings, as contrary to the typical Japanese shrines which emphasize on simplicity.

A man painting his drawing of the tower in front of the Yomeimon Gate.

Entering the Yomeimon Gate (陽明門), there's the Karamon (唐門) right ahead. Comparatively small in scale, but also a national treasure. Beyond the gate is the Yakushi-do, with a huge sumi-e of a dragon on its ceiling. By clapping your hands right under the dragon's head (but not at anywhere else), loud echoes could be heard. A monk demonstrated this by clapping two pieces of cedar wood, drawing oohs and aahs from us visitors.

~ To be continued ~